Example:
, T=10sec
Need to plot
and C w.r.t. d
For d=5ft
In order to guess range of d assume shallow water:
Then:
shallow water
unrealistic situation!
However let's continue calculation to determine d and breaker height H.
(deep water),
(shallow water)
Replacing (41) in (40) and rearranging gives:
or
(
=H at breaking)