Example: , T=10sec
Need to plot and C w.r.t. d
For d=5ft
In order to guess range of d assume shallow water:
Then: shallow water
unrealistic situation!
However let's continue calculation to determine d and breaker height H.
(deep water),
(shallow water)
Replacing (41) in (40) and rearranging gives:
or
( =H at breaking)