: height of wave just before breaking
: depth of wave just before breaking
: wave length in deep water
: unrefracted wave height; 
: deep water wave height
; b and 
are the widths between wave rays
at finite depth and deep water, respectively
Linear Theory:(in finite or infinite depth water)
In shallow water:
Miche's Theory: (in finite or infinite depth water)
In finite depth water:
Munk's Theory: (in finite depth water)
