H=wave height at depth d
L=wave length at depth d
C=wave speed at depth d
T=wave period at depth d
(same, but with subscript ``0" at )
Remember:
(see Fig. 2-6 of textbook for the second equality in eqn.(2))
Notice that
Question: If is the height in deep water, what is the height , H at depth d? We assume that bottom contours, wave crests are parallel to the shoreline
(i.e. no refraction, as will be studied later)
Power (per unit crest) at deep water:
Power (per unit crest) at depth d:
(n = 12th column on table C-1)
(definition of shoaling coeff.) given as on Table C-1