next up previous
Next: Tsunami Up: No Title Previous: No Title

Wave Shoaling

tex2html_wrap625

H=wave height at depth d

L=wave length at depth d

C=wave speed at depth d

T=wave period at depth d

(same, but with subscript ``0" at tex2html_wrap_inline615 )

tex2html_wrap627

Remember:

  eqnarray24

(see Fig. 2-6 of textbook for the second equality in eqn.(2))

Notice that tex2html_wrap_inline617

tex2html_wrap_inline619

Question: If tex2html_wrap_inline621 is the height in deep water, what is the height , H at depth d? We assume that bottom contours, wave crests are parallel to the shoreline

(i.e. no refraction, as will be studied later)

Power (per unit crest) at deep water:

eqnarray40

Power (per unit crest) at depth d:

eqnarray48

eqnarray54

(n = 12th column on table C-1)

eqnarray68

eqnarray76

(definition of shoaling coeff.) given as tex2html_wrap_inline623 on Table C-1





Soon Woong Chang
Fri Oct 22 11:39:22 CDT 1999